The gastropub trend has well and truly arrived. You know it’s a thing when Kings Cross has its very own, a new entrant to the enigmatic gastropub market: the Potts Point Hotel.
The Potts Point Hotel has long been one of the centres of Sydney nightlife as The Sugarmill. But with the lockout laws impacting on businesses across the district, the old Sugarmill has had a dining upgrade and been relaunched under a new name.
One of the hallmarks of the Potts Point Hotel is its list of specially crafted cocktails, all inspired by and named after local personalities of Kings Cross. Take, for example, the twist on the classic Tom Collins, reimagined as a Carlotta Collins: it’s named for Carol ‘Carlotta’ Spencer, AKA The Queen of the Cross. The cocktail menu is made up of seven signature creations overall, and reads more as a tribute to the history of Kings Cross, cementing the Potts Point Hotel as an important part of the cultural narrative of the area.
During our visit, we order a Marty Sharp Shandy, which is the Potts Point Hotel twist on a lagerita, and a Witches Julep, a take on a classic mint julep. The shandy is incredibly sweet, and lacks any carbonation that the lager should bring to the table. The julep, however, is incredible, and freely poured.
If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll likely have to give this place a miss. With only one vegetarian entrée and one main, there’s a distinct lack of options for the discerning vego in your life. Strangely, our entrées come out 20 minutes apart, without explanation or apology. Having said that, my vegetarian partner’s entrée is genuinely exceptional: the vegetarian-friendly smashed avocado, a fascinating take on a classic guacamole, served with witlof leaves instead of tortilla chips (it sounds far too ‘health goals’ but is so delish and worth ordering). We also choose the spicy fried chicken, which is unfortunately not spicy at all.
For the main course, our waiter recommends a selection of the meats from the smoker, but my vegetarian date has only the option of a portobello burger. My signature house smoked brisket is served American barbecue style, with a side of cornbread and pickles, but misses the mark by coming out to the table cold. The burger, however, is well thought out, with interesting textural elements of eggplant and onion rings – something even meat eaters will enjoy.
The real hero of the Potts Point Hotel is its sides. The coleslaw is one of the best I’ve had, made with a light buttermilk ranch dressing that’s so good we genuinely consider licking the bowl clean. It’s also worth going to the Potts Point Hotel just for the grilled corn: it’s served covered in parmesan, lime and chilli, and is the most moreish dish of our night.
The strangest experience of the visit comes part way through our meal, when the dining room becomes the setting for Tranny Bingo. We’re always up for a good time, but it does seem at odds with the gastropub aesthetic the Potts Point Hotel is positioning itself towards. This is a venue in transition, but it’s on its way to a competitive offering.
The Potts Point Hotel is located at 33-35 Darlinghurst Rd, Potts Point, and open Mon – Sun 11:30am-late.
