The fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent (played here by Pierre Niney) led a fascinating life.
A young protégé of Christian Dior, he became head designer at the famous fashion house at the age of only 21. Conscripted to the French Army in 1960 to fight in the Algerian War, Laurent was exposed to harsh hazing by fellow soldiers. After less than a month in the services he checked into a military hospital where he was not only heavily sedated but also received electroshock therapy. It was at this time he received word he’d been fired by Dior.
After his release from hospital, Laurent and partner Peter Bergé (Guillaume Gallienne) successfully sued Dior for breach of contract and launched their own fashion house, ultimately making Laurent an international fashion icon. With a reputation for partying and drug-taking, he frequented the hedonistic landmarks of the time including New York’s Studio 54. Not only this, but Laurent was both a homosexual and suffered manic depression at a time when these matters were poorly understood and harshly treated.
Presumably the life described above would make for a compelling and fascinating film. Sadly, though, this is not the case. The players are solid in their roles, but there’s only so much to do with this very shallow script. And while a substantial portion of Laurent’s life is documented here, the minimal mention of his famously influential women’s suit collections is a glaring omission.
Further, the period in which Laurent thrived is still relatively recent. As such, it’s difficult to see the clothes without a modern lens that leaves the looks feeling dated and almost tacky.
Impeccably produced yet with minimal character development, this is a disappointing portrayal of an innovative era brought to the screen too soon.
2/5 stars
Yves Saint Laurent opens in cinemas Thursday June 26.
